A new rule of thumb for me. Is your tab thick enough?

I've been thinking about replacing my finger tab.  It's never quite fit me comfortably and the leather is too thin/floppy.  My fingers get sore after about 30 minutes of shooting.  I asked the knowledgeable Chris Hill what he recommends, and regarding the thickness of leather, here's the rule of thumb he suggested:

For each 10# of weight on the fingers, 1mm of tab thickness.  20# on the fingers? 2mm thick tab leather.  30# on the fingers?  3mm thick tab leather.  This is a guideline I think I can remember.  Just in case I can't though, at least it's here on the old blog.

A great video on recurve aiming

I saw a link to this video on YouTube by ArcheryWinchester.  It describes proper recurve aiming and some potential issues people may encounter. 

I'll be incorporating this into my own shooting and when I give advice to others.  Good stuff!

3D Printed Sight-Mount for Cartel Clicker

Several years ago while helping with my daughter's JOAD team I got the crazy idea to make a 3D printed mount to attach an inexpensive Cartel Magnetic Clicker to a sight extension.  It's a similar concept to the excellent AAE sight-mounted clicker, but the idea was to make it cheaper and also keep the option of mounting the clicker directly on the riser if desired.  The AAE works great, but you can't move it to the riser if you decide to go that route - you'd get to buy a new clicker.

After a few rounds of prototyping I came up with something that I even tried making molds of and casting myself.  Let's just say that worked, but only barely.  I discovered that these initial attempts had a flaw - the kids would rotate the clicker so that it aligned with the sight bar when they took their bow down, thereby making it impossible to return the clicker to the exact spot next time they assembled it.  Having a look at the Cartel Magnetic Clicker (Midas) the base has a unique shape, which I used to make an inset in the mount.  This inset makes it impossible for the clicker to be rotated on the mount, so as long as the mount is in the same place on the sight extension, the clicker will always be in the same location.

This design works really well.  It's also not terribly expensive when ordering from Shapeways.  Shapeways uses SLS machines with nylon, and the print quality and tolerances are really great.  The problem is, the cost is still a bit higher than I had wanted it to be.  It's about $12 as of this writing (Dec. 2017) to get from Shapeways, plus shipping.  Many have been ordered through Shapeways by myself and others over the past couple of years.

Fast forward to 2017.  I needed three more of these and wanted to find a way to bring the cost down.  Printing these on a more common FDM type 3D printer would make these considerably less expensive.

The design I came up with has portions that cannot be printed on a FDM 3D printer without support structures.  Many people have access to these types of printers at schools or libraries or they may even own their own machine.  The cost of printing something like this on a FDM machine would be a lot lower, so I did a little re-thinking.

By removing just a few parts and re-orienting the insets for the captive nuts (used for providing metal threads), I was able to make a modified version that can be printed on a FDM printer.  In my area, the library has a Lulzbot Taz that you can order 3D prints from at very minimal cost.  I didn't know for sure if it'd work, but I sent it off to be printed.  It successfully printed* and cost a whopping $0.68!  That's more like what I had originally hoped.

Here's a summary of the Shapeways printed version versus the Library FDM printed version,

Shapeways Version

• Very high print quality
• Very good tolerances
• Wide variety of colors
• Lightweight material
• Reasonable turnaround time
• Unfortunately, more expensive than I had wished, but not outrageously expensive.

Library FDM Printed Version

• Tolerable print quality, but not great.  It's usable, but definitely visible layering and some artifacts are always present.  In some cases, the first few layers printed spread out horizontally and are thinner, resulting in deformations that must be dealt with using sandpaper and sharp blade carving.
• The material is much harder than the nylon used by Shapeways' SLS machines.
• The cost is very, very low.
• Turnaround time can be slow.  I've had it take 3 weeks on parts before, but hey, it's really cheap!

I find that the FDM prints are usable, provided you don't mind the print quality and doing some cleanup to deal with the distortions.  The Shapeways SLS prints are of vastly better quality, but I think the plastic used in the Library's FDM machine (PLA plastic) might be a little stronger.

So here's the interesting part.
While these have been available to order from Shapeways for some time, I've decided to make the STL file I used for the FDM printer available to download.  If you have access to a FDM printer and want to try one, the link to the STL file is below.  The units are MM.  

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1A3abQLRj_yXJMcxNRn80CvQuP6ioPCX3

Licensing 

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License

This means you can make them, modify the design, and share the modified design with others, but you cannot use it for commercial purposes (sell them).

Choices
So, if you want to try one of these, you have two choices now:

1. Order one from Shapeways if you want the much higher print quality
2. Print one yourself using the STL file if you don't mind the look and possible distortions.  

As I said, I find that the FDM print has vastly inferior print quality but it's still totally usable and is very, very, very cheap.  You decide what's important to you.  

Here are some photos to help you decide.  The Library FDM print is on the left, and the Shapeways SLS print is on the right.

FDM Printed Mount (left)

Shapeways SLS Print (right)

Shapeways SLS Print (right)

FDM Printed Mount (left)

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
You will need: 2 #6-32 nuts, 1 #6-32 by 3/8" machine screw, and 1 #6-32 by 2" machine screw.

The nuts go into captive insets on the back of the lower adapter.  You may choose to put a dab of super glue in the inset prior to inserting the nuts to hold them in place.

The clicker goes in the inset on the front of the lower adapter.  Remove the rubber washer if you have one before putting the clicker into its inset.  Use a short #6-32 screw to hold the clicker in place.  If you need to, add washers so that the screw doesn't stick out the back so far as to interfere with the 2" bolt.

Insert the 2" bolt through both vertical holes in both pieces.  Attach the mount as seen in the photos.  Don't over-tighten the mount so much that it crushes the mount or your sight!  Just tighten it firmly so it won't move.

Aim small, hit small

This past week I had the privilege of running the archery range for two days at my church's annual girl's camp at Camp Batel, Wyoming.  The girls that attend these camps range in age from 12-18 years old and the majority of them are not experienced with archery.  In fact, a few have never touched a bow in their lives!

I had groups of 20 or so come through during the days, with most groups shooting for around 45 minutes.  About 150 girls in total shot at the range, I think.

I took up some standard 40cm targets and some balloons (about 8 inches) to shoot at as well.  The balloons had a little extra fun added - I put a bit of flour in each so they make a cloud when they pop.

In the afternoons and evenings the girls had free time and a lot of them chose to come down to the range and shoot some arrows.  Some girls were getting pretty competent, so I worked with those that wanted to improve a bit.

One girl was shooting very well with the camp's Polaris bows, so I offered her the opportunity to shoot the PSE Optima I own that I brought up.  She did much better with this Optima and acclimated to using a finger tab quickly.

The girls all wanted to shoot at some balloons, so I put some up.  The girl shooting the Optima immediately hit hers and asked for another.  As I was putting up the balloons I decided to give this girl a challenge.  I gave her a small water balloon to shoot at instead (~2 inches), placed right over the 10 ring on her target face.

The first response to this was "I can't hit that".  I told her that I was pretty sure she can.  She responded "No way.  I can't hit that.  I haven't even had one arrow fall in the yellow directly."  I again reassured her that I was positive she could hit it and asked her to try.  I told her the funny thing is, if you aim small, you'll hit small.  She was skeptical but agreed to try.

The best thing happened next.  She shot her first arrow after putting up the small balloon and the arrow went right into the X ring, popping the small balloon!  She was so excited . There was a lot of cheering and celebration.  It was really cool!

When shooting with the JOAD team, I regularly put up targets that have only the 7, 8, 9, and 10 rings (only red and yellow), but they're the exact same size as the 40cm targets' red and yellow rings.  A funny thing happens - the archers' aim improves even though the area they're aiming at is exactly the same size.  The removal of the distractions allows them to focus on what's important.

So, this experience at camp reminded me that when you allow yourself to be distracted by extraneous stuff, you may not hit your target.  This applies to regular life as well as archery.  When you focus on what's important, you're much more likely to achieve it, even if you think you can't.

It's been a few weeks now and I've made quite a few strings.  I've experimented with several methods of loop end making.  So, in this photo are three methods.  The one on the left: two-color loop.  The middle one: the method shown in Evans Performance Bowstrings (executed less-than-perfectly).  The one on the right: the method described in the Texas State Archery string making instructions.

The two-color method is definitely the most interesting looking and the most fun, but it results in large lumps of served string under the serving.  That's not an issue most of the time, but if you decide to put no-glove type devices on your string, you will destroy your serving.  I also don't like the multiple tag ends that can show.

The method in Evans Performance Bowstrings results in absolutely no bump of served string under the serving and is therefore very sleek, but it's very difficult to "weave" the transition at the base of the loop and have it look nice.  I suppose this improves with experience.  Plus, the tag ends are only visible at the very ends of the serving away from the loop, so a clean look.

The Texas State Archery method seems like a compromise between the two.  You get a bump from serving over some served string, but it's half as much as the two-color method.  You also get no visible tag ends on the loop, just one at the end of the serving if you do it right.  It's easier to do than either other method.

So, I think I'll probably be doing the Texas State Archery method for most bowstrings from now on.  It's clean, strong, minimal "bump", and quick.  Hard to argue with that!

Non-scratch clamp-able feet for Cartel CX-1 String Jig

As mentioned in yesterday's post, I recently got a Cartel CX-1 string making jig.  Overall I'm very happy with it, but I did have to do something about those feet it came with.  If you haven't seen one, here's what the ends look like, with bent aluminum bars as feet:

Cartel CX-1 Jig: End with bent aluminum feet

As you can see, the aluminum bar stock used for the feet has simply been cut off and then bent to form the feet.  This works, for sure, but the actual contact with your table is a fairly sharp edge.  This will destroy the surface of the table upon which you make strings!

Besides messing up the finish on your table, the jig is all-aluminum except the posts.  This means it's very light and will slide all over while you work (further scratching your table).  Clamping this thing down would be a nice option, right?

Here's what I did.  I got a cheap wooden yardstick from my local big-box hardware store.  I also got some longer zip ties.  I cut a length of the yardstick for each end of the jig, zip-tied it to the jig with an extra portion of the wood sticking out for clamping, and then attached some self-adhesive felt pads to the bottom.  Problem solved!  No scratches on the table and I now have a convenient place to clamp.  Naturally, a photo is in order:

Cartel CX-1 String Jig with non-scratch, clamp-able feet

 
Having used this jig now to make close to 25 strings, the difference in usability from simply clamping it down is significant.  Plus, I am no longer "distressing" the finish on the table.  Cost less than $4 to do, so I call this a win!

Making Bowstrings ...

The back story: a buddy of mine has been volunteering as range master for an archery range at a Cub Scouts Day Camp.  It goes for several days, and as many as 200 Cub Scouts will be shooting (not all at once).  He has some inexpensive fiberglass bows that have been used for many, many years.  This year, they didn't come with strings.

I have been considering getting a string making jig for some time so I can help Boy Scouts with their Archery merit badges, so I figured now is the time.  I picked up a Cartel CX-1 string jig and a Bearpaw serving tool.  The jig can be seen to the left, including the modifications I made to the feet to keep it from scratching my table and allow me to clamp it in place (a big help).

I had limited knowledge of what I was doing, so I posted on ArcheryTalk asking for recommendations on string material, number of strands, and serving material for generic, low end bows.  A representative from Brownell Archery contacted me and helped me out with a bunch of materials!  I received a bunch of B-50 bowstring and #4 Nylon serving thread in an assortment of colors.

Now that I had the materials and the tools, I set about learning how to make some strings.  I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and read a lot of online tutorials.  The online tutorial that helped most at first was this one from Texas State Archery.

I've discovered that there are dozens of techniques and methods for building bowstrings.  It seems people find the way that works for them and use that.

After a few shaky attempts, I was getting something resembling a bowstring!

Starting and Stopping Spinning

The biggest trouble I had at first was the terrible instructions for the CX-1 jig.  They just don't clearly tell you how and where to start spinning the bowstring onto this jig.  Furthermore, the instructions tell you to do things that can't be done.  After some looking at YouTube videos, I settled on the following way to start and stop spinning the bowstring:

1. Wrap the string several times around the inner post of one end of the jig.
   
2. Spin the strands of string onto the jig. (Don't count the 12" part from the inner post to the outer post!)
3. Finish spinning by wrapping the string around the outer post on the same arm that was used to start in step 1.  Cut the string so you can get the spool out of the way. 
   

Making End Loops

I used two different methods for making end loops:

1. Serve a section to a particular length, then finish it and cut the serving thread.  Form the loop and serve the rest of the loop (sometimes in a contrasting color).
2. Use a continuous piece of serving thread as in this YouTube video by Evans Performance Bowstrings.

Method #1 has the advantage that you can use different colors for the loop and the rest of the loop serving.  I made all the Cub Scouts strings with a red upper loop, black serving and a black lower loop.  Also, if you mess up the loop closing serving, like we did installing no-glove string button devices, you can more easily repair the problem.

The problem with method #1 is that you get a lump at the base of the loop, which can be challenging to serve cleanly, and makes installing those no-glove string buttons nearly impossible without ruining the serving.  

After the experience of building over a dozen strings for the Cub Scouts using method #1, I have since switched to method #2 as shown in Evans Performance Bowstrings video. Although you can't mix/match serving colors like I did using method #1, the result is a much smaller and neater looking end loop.  I suspect it's probably a bit stronger too.

For my sanity's sake and for future reference, here are the serving lengths and starting points I used for making end loops using each of these methods:

Method #1

Upper loop: serve anywhere you like as long as you have enough room.  Serve a 4" length and finish it using a whip end.  Position the loop as desired after you rotate the jig arm back.  Serve the rest of the loop, starting so that you get a 1.5" loop.  I usually don't match up the ends, so that serving over them tapers a little.

Lower loop: rotate the jig arm 90 degrees on the end opposite that you just finished serving.  Measure 3.75" from on post (the jig arms are 12" apart on the CX-1).  Start serving there.  Serve for about 3.75" to 4".

Method #2

The video from Evans Performance Bowstrings says it all, except it leaves out a couple of things, like measurements.

Top Loop: Serve 3.5" before rotating the jig arm and aligning the ends of the serving.  This will give you roughly 1.5" top loop.

Bottom Loop: Mark the exact center of the bottom loop location.  You can use a marker as in the video or tie a small piece of serving thread at the exact middle on the post.  The serving for the lower loop should be about 2.5", and must be centered exactly on that mark.  This will give you roughly a 1" bottom loop.

Which Method?

Since I've mentioned two methods for making the end loops, you're probably wondering which I'll be using in the future.  I guess it depends.  If I want a flashy, multi-color served string, I'll use method #1.  If I want a sleek, potentially stronger string, I'll probably use method #2.  Either will work pretty well.

An interesting video about angles - The Wedge

While there is some debate about a few statements made in this video, the majority is very sound.  I'm going to have to watch it over a few times, but it does a good job explaining about trying to minimize the forces on an archer's muscles, which should improve consistency.

Just so I don't forget...recurve arrow rules of thumb

John Magera has been a pretty good source of information for me over the past few years.  He has significant experience working with a lot of archers and knows what works.  He posted this "Arrow Rule of Thumb" guide recently in response to the numerous inquiries he receives asking for help.  I'm putting it here so I don't forget where it is.

2500 spine (1214 Jazz) work from bows that are about 22# @ 22"

2000 spine Medallion XR's or 1413 Jazz/Tribues work from bows that are about 24# at 24"

1500 spine Medallion XR's, 5/15 Super Clubs, and A/C/C's work from bows that are about 26# at 26"

1200 spine CI Ultra Fast, 10/20 Super Clubs and 1150 spine A/C/C's work from bows that are about 28# at 28"

1000 spine Victory VAP's, 15/25 Super Clubs, and CX Nano SST's work from bows that are about 30# at 30"


(do you see a pattern there?)


800 spine 20/30 Super Clubs, Victory VAP's and Nano SST's and Nano Pro's work from bows that are about 32# at 30"

600 spine A/C/E's, X10's, NPX and SST's work from bows that are 40# at 30" (Rick McKinney gave me that little nugget in 2006, and I've never forgotten it).

500 spine A/C/E's, X10's, NPX and SST's work from bows that are about 45# at 31"

450 spine (what I use) A/C/E's, X10's, Nano SST's and Nano Pro Xtremes work from bows that are about 47# at 32"

These are some rules of thumb for recurve archers with normal stabilization. Barebow archers can expect to be on the slightly weak side with these arrows, and will need to lean toward a slightly stiffer solution (shorter shaft length, lighter point weight, stiffer shaft, less draw weight, more nock-end weight, etc.)

Looks like Fivics likes my photo

Fivics' Ad

I was looking through Facebook yesterday and noticed that Elivanes are now being sold in Korea (and probably other places) by Fivics. Here's the page on Fivics.com: http://fivics.com/fivics2013/gallery/gallery.php?bbs_no=229&bbs_code=10004&symode=view

I was looking at the ad and it instantly hit me that the bottom photo (the one with three arrows in a blurry target) is one of mine from this blog!

The photo is from my post about Elivanes, and it's been rotated 180 degrees, cropped somewhat, and the wrinkle on one of the vanes was Photoshopped smooth

Here's the original image from my January 2014 post:

My photo from Jan. 2014

Although initially used without asking me, Fivics responded to my messages and is now using my image with permission.

I've had good success with Elivanes and I hope others have similar success.  Now people have another way to get their hands on the vanes!

Arrow Selection for Young Archers

It's a common topic of discussion about how some archery shops frequently suggest very, very incorrect arrows for beginner recurve archers.  There are at least four models of "youth" arrows being marketed by arrow manufacturers that are ridiculously inappropriate for any youth shooters.  Today I found a really clear discussion on Archery Talk about what arrows are most appropriate for youth shooters, written by a former US Olympic team member and very active JOAD coach, John Magera.  Here's what he said:

After spending the better part of the past 10 years setting up competitive rigs for my daughter and some other very young students, I've made a few observations. Here they are: 

1) For any kid shooting less than 20# and 24#, they should unequivocally be using 1214 Easton aluminum (Jazz or Tribute) arrows. Period. It is simply the most competitive arrow they can use, and will work just fine indoors, and outdoors all the way out to 30 meters (50, if they are well coached). 1214's are a 2500 spine (2.5" deflection) arrow. There is no other arrow that can do what they do for our tiniest archers, save perhaps 1/4" ramin wood dowels at the local Hobby Lobby (don't laugh - they work).

2) The next arrow a kid should be put into after they graduate from the 1214 Jazz is the 2000 spine Medallion XR. Again, period, end of story. If they are to be competitive outdoors, this is their arrow. They could possibly use another size Jazz or Tribute (1413 or the like) but they will be heavier and larger in diameter. When it comes to carbon outdoor arrows for kids, no arrow can compete with the 2000-1800 spine Medallion XR's for overall performance and value. You have to get to the 1500 spine A/C/C to get close.
For a kid to shoot the 2000 spine Medallion XR's, they need to be shooting AT LEAST 22# on the fingers, and the arrow still needs to be at least 24" long to have any chance of spining properly.

3) The weakest CI Super Club is the 5/10, and even it is still 1500 or so spine. Not a competitive option until a kid is shooting about 24-25# with an arrow that is 25-26" long. 

So, where does that leave us? If your student/child is shooting less than 24# on the fingers and is using an arrow less than 26" long, there really are only 2 or 3 arrows that will shoot straight out of their recurve. Anything else is going to be overspined. Most likely WAY overspined.

John has years of experience in this.  I have personally received quite a bit of advice from him and he has been right every single time.  From my limited experience as a coach, what he says about youth arrows is totally on target (pun intended).

So, unless a youth shooter is above 25# on the fingers and over 26" long arrow length, there really are only two totally appropriate arrows to suggest: Easton 1214 (Jazz or Tribute) or Carbon Express Medallion XR 2000.  After that, the Carbon Impact Super Club 5/10.  Very useful information!

3D Printed Apertures- They're Ready for You to Try!

Well, it's been a bit of a process, but I think that the 3D printed recurve sight aperture project is ready for the public.  On the left you can see the latest iteration of these DIY apertures with a metal rule for size comparison.

It's kid of a DIY project, where you order the parts and assemble the aperture yourself to your liking.  The housing is 3D printed and you can choose from three different models, all of which will work with either left or right-handed sights.

The page for this project has been added to this blog at http://archerygeek.blogspot.com/p/3d-printed-aperture.html

Feel free to make as many as you want and share the link with your buddies.  It's not a money-making project for me.  I'm offering it up to the archery community to do with what they wish.  3D printing is supposed to be that next "disruptive technology", so disrupt away!

A couple more renders on the aperture project

After a few prototypes, I've discovered that a few modifications were required.  The bolt head is now shaped for a pan head bolt (much easier to find) and slides in from the back so that the archer's view is smooth and symmetrical.  A few parts were thickened to add strength, and a few places were trimmed to avoid thin wall problems.  Also, the third variant, the non-glass o-ring only aperture, was added.  All will be available in right hand or left hand.

Coming soon - recurve apertures you can build

I've been testing/prototyping a recurve aperture which I plan to make available to anyone who wants to put one together.  I'm not going to be selling these things, but rather I'll make the model available for order from a 3D printing company, and then you'd acquire a bolt, a nut, o-rings, and glass if desired.  So far I'm thinking two sizes would be good: one that accepts a 15mm glass window (about 5/8" O.D.) and one that accepts a 12.5mm glass window (around 1/2" O.D.)  Naturally, you'd only use the glass if you want to use a dot or drill it for a fiber.  Otherwise you would be able to just use o-rings to vary the size of the aperture opening you look through.

Here's a rendering:

Stay tuned ... should be ready soon!

Bloodsport One Arrows - a solution to a problem

Bloodsport One arrows,
VaneTec Swift Vanes (left)
Elivanes P3 (right)

So, I have a unique problem.  I have long arms and shoot a recurve bow with fairly light draw weight (~30 lbs at my draw length).  Why is that a problem?  I dare you to find arrows that are of a proper spine that are actually long enough.

History

When I got my recurve, I got Easton Platinum Plus aluminum arrows.  The shop recommended and I bought 1816 arrows, which worked OK except for one serious problem: I could draw them off the back of the arrow rest.  That's actually a major hazard!  After consulting Easton's charts I found that the 1913 arrows would offer similar spine at a much safer arrow length of 31".  The downside?  They're not as common and components are hard to get.  I also discovered that the 1913 arrows are too stiff for a light-poundage recurve and I ended up having to use threaded inserts with really heavy points to even get them close to tuned right.

I decided it's time to move to carbon and found that arrows with the right spine are pretty easy to get ... if you have short arms.  If you need a 31" arrow shaft in 800 to 900 spine, there just isn't anything out there.  Some come close (Victory VAP is 30.5"), but even that would have my clicker hitting the riser instead of the clicker plate, scratching the paint more and more for each shot.

The Solution

When I shot a compound, I had great success with Harvest Time HT-2 arrows.  They worked really well for me.  Harvest Time was bought by Muddy Outdoors a few years ago, which resulted in all the Harvest Time arrows being re-branded.  Harvest Time made an arrow called the HT-1, which is a skinny carbon arrow designed for hunting that is intended to deliver maximum penetration with high durability and light weight.  These arrows now are called Bloodsport One arrows.  In my desperation to find a carbon arrow in the 800-900 spine range that was long enough, I checked out the Muddy Outdoors Boodsport site and discovered that ALL spines in the Bloodsport One arrows are made in 31" shaft length, and even better, they make them that way right up to 1000 spine arrows!

What Are They?

The Bloodsport One arrows are skinny, lightweight, carbon arrows.  They come in three straightness tolerance options (0.006", 0.003", and 0.001") and are available in spines from 300 through 1000.  They can use glue-in points and use Easton G Nocks (no bushing - they push right into the arrow shaft).  They actually come with Bohning F Nocks, which are Bohning's equivalent to the Easton G Nocks.  Here are the specs, copied from the Bloodsport website:

Spine ID OD GPI
1000 .165" .209"  5.1
900   .165" .211"  5.3
800   .165" .215"  6.1
700   .165" .220"  6.5
600   .165" .223"  7.1
500   .165" .231"  8.2
400   .165" .238"  9.1
350   .165" .245" 10.2
300   .165" .255" 11.7

So, as you can see these arrows, although designed for hunting, actually have specs that make them competitive with Easton Carbon One, Carbon Express Medallion XR, and Victory VAP arrows, but at a longer shaft length.  For long-draw, low-draw-weight recurve shooters, these arrows fill a need that just isn't served by anyone else.  The skinny outer diameter means they don't drift in the wind, and the light weight means you can get more distance without having to go up in weight.

How Well Do They Work?

I've been using these since summer 2013.  I got 800 spine with 100 grain glue-in target points.  As it turns out, I might have been better off with the 900 spine since they're still a tiny bit stiff.

As for flight, they work very well.  I've had people comment on how they look like fast-moving spears when they're shot.

What I Like

• They're not terribly expensive - quite a good value, in fact
• They're high quality
• They fly well
• They are light weight
• They're skinny for less wind drift
• They come in long shaft length at soft spines

What I Don't Like

I don't like the graphics.  They're designed for hunters wanting to make sure everyone knows they enjoy spilling blood.  I wish they'd make the same arrow with different graphics for us target recurve shooters.  Seriously, that's all I don't like about them!

Recommendation

If you're in the same predicament as me - long draw, light draw weight - you will have a difficult time finding an alternative to these arrows.  Even if you do, they'll likely cost more money for similar quality.  The Victory VAP is close in length but at 0.003" tolerance are quite a bit more expensive.  The Carbon Express Medallion XR is similar in price and have similar specs, but the shaft length at 800 and 900 is much too short for me.  The Easton Carbon One arrows are the same story as the Medallion XRs.

These simply solve the problem for me without making me go up in draw weight.  They're very good arrows and if you can live with the graphics I highly recommend them.  For orangutan-armed, wimpy recurve shooters like myself, these really solve a tough problem!

A Great Archery Book - Archery by USA Archery

Since starting in archery in 2008, I have only actually purchased one archery book.  It was shortly after my daughter started back in shooting recurve and when I switched to recurve.  We were both having difficulty and although we could occasionally get advice on what we were doing wrong, we could never find out what to do about it and what it looked like when we were doing things right.

The book, "Archery" by USA Archery was recommended to us by a coach, who said that it's almost enough to replace a coach.  I now know that's not quite the whole story - a coach is very valuable - but it's a great way to learn how you should be improving your archery skills if you can't afford a coach.

Other than taking the USA Archery coaching training courses, I've learned more about archery technique from this book than any other resource I've found.  The good thing is, if you follow the instructions you're learning to shoot the way that USA Archery Certified NTS Instructors would teach you, and you're also learning to shoot the way that the USA Olympic Team is taught.

This book is a bargain.  On Amazon, it's $18.71 right now for the paperback.  I recommend the paper version because it can be taken with you and can still be read even if you forget to charge your tablet/phone!  It's quite possibly the best money I've spent on archery.  Even if you have a coach, get it and read it.  Review sections with your coach.  I can't recommend this book enough.

Elivanes - What I Personally Use

Elivanes in the gold

As I said in a previous post, my favorite plastic vane is the excellent VaneTec Swift.  In fact, had I not found the vanes that are the subject of this post, I'd still be shooting Swifts.  However, after reading many encouraging posts on ArcheryTalk and seeing how many top-level archers use them, I gave Elivanes a try.  Now they're what I personally use.

What Are They?

Elivanes are mylar curly vanes.  They have a permanent helical molded-in.  They're extremely lightweight and are applied with fletching tape rather than gluing them on.  They come in a few different shapes and sizes.  I personally use the P3 vanes (P means Parabolic profile).  The S3 profile is also highly regarded.

How Well Do They Work?

Using my fletching jig set at 1 degree straight offset, I drew lines carefully on my Bloodsport One Series arrows using a mechanical pencil.  I applied the vanes using the double-sided tape provided with the vanes and taped the ends down using the provided black tape.

I've been using these vanes for close to six months now, with great success.  They have proven to be quite durable - I've not had to replace a single vane.  When the archer does his job right and releases cleanly, these vanes work remarkably well.  Because they're very lightweight, it gives you just a little more arrow front-of-center balance.  They correct any remaining wobble rapidly and get the arrow spinning for additional flight stability.  If you have a rough, plucky release though, they probably won't correct all of it out.  In other words, these are not good for beginners.

A Tournament Advantage

One advantage to using these vanes, besides the very good flight performance, is that you can replace them easily on the field or at the range - no jig required.  As long as you have your lines drawn on well and bring the tape with you, you can fix any ruined vanes at the tournament so you can keep shooting.

Summary

The Good: 

• Lightweight
• Fly really well - stabilize and impart spin
• Suprisingly Durable

The Bad:

• Won't compensate for a bad release
• Don't come with enough fletching tape
• Aren't good for beginners
• Aren't as pretty as the VaneTec Swift vanes

A Few Helpful Tips

As I said, the package doesn't come with nearly enough double-sided fletching tape.  There also isn't enough of the black end-securing tape.

Get a roll of Bohning fletching tape.  It'll last you several dozen arrows and besides sticking better, it's a tiny bit narrower and therefore works even better - provided you have your shafts cleaned well.

For the end tape, I picked up a roll of pinstriping tape from an auto parts store.  It was cheap and will also last for several dozen arrows.  As an added bonus, you can usually get different colors of pinstriping tape.

A Note About These Photos: the photos you see in this post were taken by me.  If you're wondering how I got such nice depth of field effects, I used a 1970s vintage Fujinon 50/1.8 (non-EBC) at f/4.0 on my Canon 60D.  No processing was done other than adjusting exposure and cropping/resizing.

My favorite plastic vanes - VaneTec Swift

The VaneTec Swift 1.87" vane

Since switching to recurve I've experimented with a number of different types of vanes for my arrows.  I've tried VaneTec SuperSpine in a couple of lengths, AAE WAV vanes, FlexFletch FFP187, and VaneTec Swifts in a couple of lengths.  While the WAVs and the FFP187s did fly well, each had their own issues.  Of all the plastic vanes I've tried, the ones that have consistently worked best for me are the VaneTec Swift series vanes.

What are they? 

Swift 1.87" and 2.25"

The Swift vanes are a low-profile, shield-cut, plastic vane.  They come in plenty of colors and are available in three sizes: 2.88", 2.25", and 1.87".  While not designed to be an ultra lightweight vane, they are comparable in weight to similar vanes from their competitors (except the WAV).  Even though they're marketed as a 3D shooting vane, they work great as recurve vanes.  I've personally used both the 1.87" and 2.25" vanes but not the 2.88" vanes.

How well do they work?

Swift vanes work with all fletching glues and have a narrow, but not too-narrow base, which makes them easy to glue on.  They have a nice shape that makes for attractive finished arrows.  They're also very durable and don't discolor much in sunlight or when exposed to adhesives.  Most importantly, they fly very well.  For me, they fly just as well as the WAV vanes and the FFP187 vanes.

Recommendation

Blue and Flo. Green 2.25" Swifts

If you're looking at trying out some high performance vanes and don't have to have the absolute lightest plastic vanes available, you'd have a hard time finding a better plastic vane than the Swift vanes.  Although they're heavier than the WAV vanes, they're far easier to glue on and are more durable.

AAE WAV vanes

Last year, AAE introduced a new vane that has caused quite a stir.  The vane is called WAV.  It's a 2" vane that's low-profile (0.33" tall) and weighs only 1.7 grains each!  A plastic vane of this size with that weight is truly remarkable.  In addition to the impressive specs, it's got a nice shield cut shape (which I like) and bold graphics (which I like reasonably well).

So, when they became available, I was in the process of getting some new arrows to try out so I grabbed some WAV vanes to try out as well.  Here are my impressions, experiences, and opinions.

Impressions: the vanes are noticeably lightweight.  The material is very thin, and the base where you glue them to the shaft is considerably more narrow than other vanes.  The material is not as stiff as other vanes, almost stretchy.  They have a matte surface finish.

In shooting, I found that these vanes do what they advertise - they fly really, really well.  I fletched mine up with 1 degree straight offset, which worked well for me indoors and outdoors.  I used my usual Flex-Bond adhesive, which turned out to be not ideal.  Because of the very narrow base, it's really tough to glue these vanes on, and unless you use the glue AAE suggests (AAE Max Bond Glue) they will literally fall off.  I didn't have a single shooting session in which I didn't have at least one vane simply fall off.  They do fly really great when they are still on the shaft, though!  Another issue I had is that they warp/distort quite easily.  If you shoot an arrow a little close to another, the impact can cause puckered, almost stretched vanes.

The Good: These are really light, very attractive, great-flying vanes.

The Bad: They're hard to glue on, will probably fall off if you don't use AAE's glue, and tend to warp/distort a little easier than I'd like.

My verdict: If you use the AAE glue, I'd recommend these vanes if you must have the lightest 2" low-profile vanes available.  They really do fly well, look nice, and are light enough to almost compete with mylar vanes.  However, be prepared to replace them a little more frequently than other plastic vanes.

In the end, for plastic vanes I switched back to my favorite - the VaneTec Swift.  The Swift vanes in 1.87" weigh almost double the WAV vanes (3.2 grains), but that's still pretty light.  They're much more durable, much easier to glue on, they come in more colors, and they fly pretty much exactly as well for me as the WAV vanes.  If you can live with the small amount of extra weight, give the Swifts a try.

Win & Win 2014 new risers

I'm a big fan of Win & Win products.  They consistently produce high quality, high performance gear that many top archers use.  Don't get me wrong - Hoyt does too, but I prefer Win & Win's stuff.

There are a few new risers from Win & Win this year - the Inno AXT, the Winact VT, and the Rapido.  I really like the Inno AXT, which is like an aluminum version of the top-of-the-line carbon Inno CXT or Inno-Max.  That should make it a little cheaper.

The Winact VT looks like a pretty nice riser too, with a more angular look.

More details can be found here.