Aim small, hit small

This past week I had the privilege of running the archery range for two days at my church's annual girl's camp at Camp Batel, Wyoming.  The girls that attend these camps range in age from 12-18 years old and the majority of them are not experienced with archery.  In fact, a few have never touched a bow in their lives!

I had groups of 20 or so come through during the days, with most groups shooting for around 45 minutes.  About 150 girls in total shot at the range, I think.

I took up some standard 40cm targets and some balloons (about 8 inches) to shoot at as well.  The balloons had a little extra fun added - I put a bit of flour in each so they make a cloud when they pop.

In the afternoons and evenings the girls had free time and a lot of them chose to come down to the range and shoot some arrows.  Some girls were getting pretty competent, so I worked with those that wanted to improve a bit.

One girl was shooting very well with the camp's Polaris bows, so I offered her the opportunity to shoot the PSE Optima I own that I brought up.  She did much better with this Optima and acclimated to using a finger tab quickly.

The girls all wanted to shoot at some balloons, so I put some up.  The girl shooting the Optima immediately hit hers and asked for another.  As I was putting up the balloons I decided to give this girl a challenge.  I gave her a small water balloon to shoot at instead (~2 inches), placed right over the 10 ring on her target face.

The first response to this was "I can't hit that".  I told her that I was pretty sure she can.  She responded "No way.  I can't hit that.  I haven't even had one arrow fall in the yellow directly."  I again reassured her that I was positive she could hit it and asked her to try.  I told her the funny thing is, if you aim small, you'll hit small.  She was skeptical but agreed to try.

The best thing happened next.  She shot her first arrow after putting up the small balloon and the arrow went right into the X ring, popping the small balloon!  She was so excited . There was a lot of cheering and celebration.  It was really cool!

When shooting with the JOAD team, I regularly put up targets that have only the 7, 8, 9, and 10 rings (only red and yellow), but they're the exact same size as the 40cm targets' red and yellow rings.  A funny thing happens - the archers' aim improves even though the area they're aiming at is exactly the same size.  The removal of the distractions allows them to focus on what's important.

So, this experience at camp reminded me that when you allow yourself to be distracted by extraneous stuff, you may not hit your target.  This applies to regular life as well as archery.  When you focus on what's important, you're much more likely to achieve it, even if you think you can't.

It's been a few weeks now and I've made quite a few strings.  I've experimented with several methods of loop end making.  So, in this photo are three methods.  The one on the left: two-color loop.  The middle one: the method shown in Evans Performance Bowstrings (executed less-than-perfectly).  The one on the right: the method described in the Texas State Archery string making instructions.

The two-color method is definitely the most interesting looking and the most fun, but it results in large lumps of served string under the serving.  That's not an issue most of the time, but if you decide to put no-glove type devices on your string, you will destroy your serving.  I also don't like the multiple tag ends that can show.

The method in Evans Performance Bowstrings results in absolutely no bump of served string under the serving and is therefore very sleek, but it's very difficult to "weave" the transition at the base of the loop and have it look nice.  I suppose this improves with experience.  Plus, the tag ends are only visible at the very ends of the serving away from the loop, so a clean look.

The Texas State Archery method seems like a compromise between the two.  You get a bump from serving over some served string, but it's half as much as the two-color method.  You also get no visible tag ends on the loop, just one at the end of the serving if you do it right.  It's easier to do than either other method.

So, I think I'll probably be doing the Texas State Archery method for most bowstrings from now on.  It's clean, strong, minimal "bump", and quick.  Hard to argue with that!

Non-scratch clamp-able feet for Cartel CX-1 String Jig

As mentioned in yesterday's post, I recently got a Cartel CX-1 string making jig.  Overall I'm very happy with it, but I did have to do something about those feet it came with.  If you haven't seen one, here's what the ends look like, with bent aluminum bars as feet:

Cartel CX-1 Jig: End with bent aluminum feet

As you can see, the aluminum bar stock used for the feet has simply been cut off and then bent to form the feet.  This works, for sure, but the actual contact with your table is a fairly sharp edge.  This will destroy the surface of the table upon which you make strings!

Besides messing up the finish on your table, the jig is all-aluminum except the posts.  This means it's very light and will slide all over while you work (further scratching your table).  Clamping this thing down would be a nice option, right?

Here's what I did.  I got a cheap wooden yardstick from my local big-box hardware store.  I also got some longer zip ties.  I cut a length of the yardstick for each end of the jig, zip-tied it to the jig with an extra portion of the wood sticking out for clamping, and then attached some self-adhesive felt pads to the bottom.  Problem solved!  No scratches on the table and I now have a convenient place to clamp.  Naturally, a photo is in order:

Cartel CX-1 String Jig with non-scratch, clamp-able feet

 
Having used this jig now to make close to 25 strings, the difference in usability from simply clamping it down is significant.  Plus, I am no longer "distressing" the finish on the table.  Cost less than $4 to do, so I call this a win!

Making Bowstrings ...

The back story: a buddy of mine has been volunteering as range master for an archery range at a Cub Scouts Day Camp.  It goes for several days, and as many as 200 Cub Scouts will be shooting (not all at once).  He has some inexpensive fiberglass bows that have been used for many, many years.  This year, they didn't come with strings.

I have been considering getting a string making jig for some time so I can help Boy Scouts with their Archery merit badges, so I figured now is the time.  I picked up a Cartel CX-1 string jig and a Bearpaw serving tool.  The jig can be seen to the left, including the modifications I made to the feet to keep it from scratching my table and allow me to clamp it in place (a big help).

I had limited knowledge of what I was doing, so I posted on ArcheryTalk asking for recommendations on string material, number of strands, and serving material for generic, low end bows.  A representative from Brownell Archery contacted me and helped me out with a bunch of materials!  I received a bunch of B-50 bowstring and #4 Nylon serving thread in an assortment of colors.

Now that I had the materials and the tools, I set about learning how to make some strings.  I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and read a lot of online tutorials.  The online tutorial that helped most at first was this one from Texas State Archery.

I've discovered that there are dozens of techniques and methods for building bowstrings.  It seems people find the way that works for them and use that.

After a few shaky attempts, I was getting something resembling a bowstring!

Starting and Stopping Spinning

The biggest trouble I had at first was the terrible instructions for the CX-1 jig.  They just don't clearly tell you how and where to start spinning the bowstring onto this jig.  Furthermore, the instructions tell you to do things that can't be done.  After some looking at YouTube videos, I settled on the following way to start and stop spinning the bowstring:

1. Wrap the string several times around the inner post of one end of the jig.
   
2. Spin the strands of string onto the jig. (Don't count the 12" part from the inner post to the outer post!)
3. Finish spinning by wrapping the string around the outer post on the same arm that was used to start in step 1.  Cut the string so you can get the spool out of the way. 
   

Making End Loops

I used two different methods for making end loops:

1. Serve a section to a particular length, then finish it and cut the serving thread.  Form the loop and serve the rest of the loop (sometimes in a contrasting color).
2. Use a continuous piece of serving thread as in this YouTube video by Evans Performance Bowstrings.

Method #1 has the advantage that you can use different colors for the loop and the rest of the loop serving.  I made all the Cub Scouts strings with a red upper loop, black serving and a black lower loop.  Also, if you mess up the loop closing serving, like we did installing no-glove string button devices, you can more easily repair the problem.

The problem with method #1 is that you get a lump at the base of the loop, which can be challenging to serve cleanly, and makes installing those no-glove string buttons nearly impossible without ruining the serving.  

After the experience of building over a dozen strings for the Cub Scouts using method #1, I have since switched to method #2 as shown in Evans Performance Bowstrings video. Although you can't mix/match serving colors like I did using method #1, the result is a much smaller and neater looking end loop.  I suspect it's probably a bit stronger too.

For my sanity's sake and for future reference, here are the serving lengths and starting points I used for making end loops using each of these methods:

Method #1

Upper loop: serve anywhere you like as long as you have enough room.  Serve a 4" length and finish it using a whip end.  Position the loop as desired after you rotate the jig arm back.  Serve the rest of the loop, starting so that you get a 1.5" loop.  I usually don't match up the ends, so that serving over them tapers a little.

Lower loop: rotate the jig arm 90 degrees on the end opposite that you just finished serving.  Measure 3.75" from on post (the jig arms are 12" apart on the CX-1).  Start serving there.  Serve for about 3.75" to 4".

Method #2

The video from Evans Performance Bowstrings says it all, except it leaves out a couple of things, like measurements.

Top Loop: Serve 3.5" before rotating the jig arm and aligning the ends of the serving.  This will give you roughly 1.5" top loop.

Bottom Loop: Mark the exact center of the bottom loop location.  You can use a marker as in the video or tie a small piece of serving thread at the exact middle on the post.  The serving for the lower loop should be about 2.5", and must be centered exactly on that mark.  This will give you roughly a 1" bottom loop.

Which Method?

Since I've mentioned two methods for making the end loops, you're probably wondering which I'll be using in the future.  I guess it depends.  If I want a flashy, multi-color served string, I'll use method #1.  If I want a sleek, potentially stronger string, I'll probably use method #2.  Either will work pretty well.

An interesting video about angles - The Wedge

While there is some debate about a few statements made in this video, the majority is very sound.  I'm going to have to watch it over a few times, but it does a good job explaining about trying to minimize the forces on an archer's muscles, which should improve consistency.

Just so I don't forget...recurve arrow rules of thumb

John Magera has been a pretty good source of information for me over the past few years.  He has significant experience working with a lot of archers and knows what works.  He posted this "Arrow Rule of Thumb" guide recently in response to the numerous inquiries he receives asking for help.  I'm putting it here so I don't forget where it is.

2500 spine (1214 Jazz) work from bows that are about 22# @ 22"

2000 spine Medallion XR's or 1413 Jazz/Tribues work from bows that are about 24# at 24"

1500 spine Medallion XR's, 5/15 Super Clubs, and A/C/C's work from bows that are about 26# at 26"

1200 spine CI Ultra Fast, 10/20 Super Clubs and 1150 spine A/C/C's work from bows that are about 28# at 28"

1000 spine Victory VAP's, 15/25 Super Clubs, and CX Nano SST's work from bows that are about 30# at 30"


(do you see a pattern there?)


800 spine 20/30 Super Clubs, Victory VAP's and Nano SST's and Nano Pro's work from bows that are about 32# at 30"

600 spine A/C/E's, X10's, NPX and SST's work from bows that are 40# at 30" (Rick McKinney gave me that little nugget in 2006, and I've never forgotten it).

500 spine A/C/E's, X10's, NPX and SST's work from bows that are about 45# at 31"

450 spine (what I use) A/C/E's, X10's, Nano SST's and Nano Pro Xtremes work from bows that are about 47# at 32"

These are some rules of thumb for recurve archers with normal stabilization. Barebow archers can expect to be on the slightly weak side with these arrows, and will need to lean toward a slightly stiffer solution (shorter shaft length, lighter point weight, stiffer shaft, less draw weight, more nock-end weight, etc.)

Looks like Fivics likes my photo

Fivics' Ad

I was looking through Facebook yesterday and noticed that Elivanes are now being sold in Korea (and probably other places) by Fivics. Here's the page on Fivics.com: http://fivics.com/fivics2013/gallery/gallery.php?bbs_no=229&bbs_code=10004&symode=view

I was looking at the ad and it instantly hit me that the bottom photo (the one with three arrows in a blurry target) is one of mine from this blog!

The photo is from my post about Elivanes, and it's been rotated 180 degrees, cropped somewhat, and the wrinkle on one of the vanes was Photoshopped smooth

Here's the original image from my January 2014 post:

My photo from Jan. 2014

Although initially used without asking me, Fivics responded to my messages and is now using my image with permission.

I've had good success with Elivanes and I hope others have similar success.  Now people have another way to get their hands on the vanes!