As mentioned in yesterday's post, I recently got a Cartel CX-1 string making jig. Overall I'm very happy with it, but I did have to do something about those feet it came with. If you haven't seen one, here's what the ends look like, with bent aluminum bars as feet:
As you can see, the aluminum bar stock used for the feet has simply been cut off and then bent to form the feet. This works, for sure, but the actual contact with your table is a fairly sharp edge. This will destroy the surface of the table upon which you make strings!
Besides messing up the finish on your table, the jig is all-aluminum except the posts. This means it's very light and will slide all over while you work (further scratching your table). Clamping this thing down would be a nice option, right?
Here's what I did. I got a cheap wooden yardstick from my local big-box hardware store. I also got some longer zip ties. I cut a length of the yardstick for each end of the jig, zip-tied it to the jig with an extra portion of the wood sticking out for clamping, and then attached some self-adhesive felt pads to the bottom. Problem solved! No scratches on the table and I now have a convenient place to clamp. Naturally, a photo is in order:
Having used this jig now to make close to 25 strings, the difference in usability from simply clamping it down is significant. Plus, I am no longer "distressing" the finish on the table. Cost less than $4 to do, so I call this a win!
The back story: a buddy of mine has been volunteering as range master for an archery range at a Cub Scouts Day Camp. It goes for several days, and as many as 200 Cub Scouts will be shooting (not all at once). He has some inexpensive fiberglass bows that have been used for many, many years. This year, they didn't come with strings.
I have been considering getting a string making jig for some time so I can help Boy Scouts with their Archery merit badges, so I figured now is the time. I picked up a Cartel CX-1 string jig and a Bearpaw serving tool. The jig can be seen to the left, including the modifications I made to the feet to keep it from scratching my table and allow me to clamp it in place (a big help).
I had limited knowledge of what I was doing, so I posted on ArcheryTalk asking for recommendations on string material, number of strands, and serving material for generic, low end bows. A representative from Brownell Archery contacted me and helped me out with a bunch of materials! I received a bunch of B-50 bowstring and #4 Nylon serving thread in an assortment of colors.
Now that I had the materials and the tools, I set about learning how to make some strings. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and read a lot of online tutorials. The online tutorial that helped most at first was this one from Texas State Archery.
I've discovered that there are dozens of techniques and methods for building bowstrings. It seems people find the way that works for them and use that.
After a few shaky attempts, I was getting something resembling a bowstring!
Starting and Stopping Spinning
The biggest trouble I had at first was the terrible instructions for the CX-1 jig. They just don't clearly tell you how and where to start spinning the bowstring onto this jig. Furthermore, the instructions tell you to do things that can't be done. After some looking at YouTube videos, I settled on the following way to start and stop spinning the bowstring:
Wrap the string several times around the inner post of one end of the jig.
Spin the strands of string onto the jig. (Don't count the 12" part from the inner post to the outer post!)
Finish spinning by wrapping the string around the outer post on the same arm that was used to start in step 1. Cut the string so you can get the spool out of the way.
Making End Loops
I used two different methods for making end loops:
Serve a section to a particular length, then finish it and cut the serving thread. Form the loop and serve the rest of the loop (sometimes in a contrasting color).
Use a continuous piece of serving thread as in this YouTube video by Evans Performance Bowstrings.
Method #1 has the advantage that you can use different colors for the loop and the rest of the loop serving. I made all the Cub Scouts strings with a red upper loop, black serving and a black lower loop. Also, if you mess up the loop closing serving, like we did installing no-glove string button devices, you can more easily repair the problem.
The problem with method #1 is that you get a lump at the base of the loop, which can be challenging to serve cleanly, and makes installing those no-glove string buttons nearly impossible without ruining the serving.
After the experience of building over a dozen strings for the Cub Scouts using method #1, I have since switched to method #2 as shown in Evans Performance Bowstrings video. Although you can't mix/match serving colors like I did using method #1, the result is a much smaller and neater looking end loop. I suspect it's probably a bit stronger too.
For my sanity's sake and for future reference, here are the serving lengths and starting points I used for making end loops using each of these methods:
Method #1
Upper loop: serve anywhere you like as long as you have enough room. Serve a 4" length and finish it using a whip end. Position the loop as desired after you rotate the jig arm back. Serve the rest of the loop, starting so that you get a 1.5" loop. I usually don't match up the ends, so that serving over them tapers a little.
Lower loop: rotate the jig arm 90 degrees on the end opposite that you just finished serving. Measure 3.75" from on post (the jig arms are 12" apart on the CX-1). Start serving there. Serve for about 3.75" to 4".
Top Loop: Serve 3.5" before rotating the jig arm and aligning the ends of the serving. This will give you roughly 1.5" top loop.
Bottom Loop: Mark the exact center of the bottom loop location. You can use a marker as in the video or tie a small piece of serving thread at the exact middle on the post. The serving for the lower loop should be about 2.5", and must be centered exactly on that mark. This will give you roughly a 1" bottom loop.
Which Method?
Since I've mentioned two methods for making the end loops, you're probably wondering which I'll be using in the future. I guess it depends. If I want a flashy, multi-color served string, I'll use method #1. If I want a sleek, potentially stronger string, I'll probably use method #2. Either will work pretty well.
While there is some debate about a few statements made in this video, the majority is very sound. I'm going to have to watch it over a few times, but it does a good job explaining about trying to minimize the forces on an archer's muscles, which should improve consistency.
John Magera has been a pretty good source of information for me over the past few years. He has significant experience working with a lot of archers and knows what works. He posted this "Arrow Rule of Thumb" guide recently in response to the numerous inquiries he receives asking for help. I'm putting it here so I don't forget where it is.
2500 spine (1214 Jazz) work from bows that are about 22# @ 22"
2000 spine Medallion XR's or 1413 Jazz/Tribues work from bows that are about 24# at 24"
1500 spine Medallion XR's, 5/15 Super Clubs, and A/C/C's work from bows that are about 26# at 26"
1200 spine CI Ultra Fast, 10/20 Super Clubs and 1150 spine A/C/C's work from bows that are about 28# at 28"
1000 spine Victory VAP's, 15/25 Super Clubs, and CX Nano SST's work from bows that are about 30# at 30"
(do you see a pattern there?)
800 spine 20/30 Super Clubs, Victory VAP's and Nano SST's and Nano Pro's work from bows that are about 32# at 30"
600 spine A/C/E's, X10's, NPX and SST's work from bows that are 40# at 30" (Rick McKinney gave me that little nugget in 2006, and I've never forgotten it).
500 spine A/C/E's, X10's, NPX and SST's work from bows that are about 45# at 31"
450 spine (what I use) A/C/E's, X10's, Nano SST's and Nano Pro Xtremes work from bows that are about 47# at 32"
These are some rules of thumb for recurve archers with normal stabilization. Barebow archers can expect to be on the slightly weak side with these arrows, and will need to lean toward a slightly stiffer solution (shorter shaft length, lighter point weight, stiffer shaft, less draw weight, more nock-end weight, etc.)
I was looking at the ad and it instantly hit me that the bottom photo (the one with three arrows in a blurry target) is one of mine from this blog!
The photo is from my post about Elivanes, and it's been rotated 180 degrees, cropped somewhat, and the wrinkle on one of the vanes was Photoshopped smooth
It's a common topic of discussion about how some archery shops frequently suggest very, very incorrect arrows for beginner recurve archers. There are at least four models of "youth" arrows being marketed by arrow manufacturers that are ridiculously inappropriate for any youth shooters. Today I found a really clear discussion on Archery Talk about what arrows are most appropriate for youth shooters, written by a former US Olympic team member and very active JOAD coach, John Magera. Here's what he said:
After spending the better part of the past 10 years setting up competitive rigs for my daughter and some other very young students, I've made a few observations. Here they are:
1) For any kid shooting less than 20# and 24#, they should unequivocally be using 1214 Easton aluminum (Jazz or Tribute) arrows. Period. It is simply the most competitive arrow they can use, and will work just fine indoors, and outdoors all the way out to 30 meters (50, if they are well coached). 1214's are a 2500 spine (2.5" deflection) arrow. There is no other arrow that can do what they do for our tiniest archers, save perhaps 1/4" ramin wood dowels at the local Hobby Lobby (don't laugh - they work).
2) The next arrow a kid should be put into after they graduate from the 1214 Jazz is the 2000 spine Medallion XR. Again, period, end of story. If they are to be competitive outdoors, this is their arrow. They could possibly use another size Jazz or Tribute (1413 or the like) but they will be heavier and larger in diameter. When it comes to carbon outdoor arrows for kids, no arrow can compete with the 2000-1800 spine Medallion XR's for overall performance and value. You have to get to the 1500 spine A/C/C to get close. For a kid to shoot the 2000 spine Medallion XR's, they need to be shooting AT LEAST 22# on the fingers, and the arrow still needs to be at least 24" long to have any chance of spining properly.
3) The weakest CI Super Club is the 5/10, and even it is still 1500 or so spine. Not a competitive option until a kid is shooting about 24-25# with an arrow that is 25-26" long.
So, where does that leave us? If your student/child is shooting less than 24# on the fingers and is using an arrow less than 26" long, there really are only 2 or 3 arrows that will shoot straight out of their recurve. Anything else is going to be overspined. Most likely WAY overspined.
John has years of experience in this. I have personally received quite a bit of advice from him and he has been right every single time. From my limited experience as a coach, what he says about youth arrows is totally on target (pun intended).
So, unless a youth shooter is above 25# on the fingers and over 26" long arrow length, there really are only two totally appropriate arrows to suggest: Easton 1214 (Jazz or Tribute) or Carbon Express Medallion XR 2000. After that, the Carbon Impact Super Club 5/10. Very useful information!
Well, it's been a bit of a process, but I think that the 3D printed recurve sight aperture project is ready for the public. On the left you can see the latest iteration of these DIY apertures with a metal rule for size comparison.
It's kid of a DIY project, where you order the parts and assemble the aperture yourself to your liking. The housing is 3D printed and you can choose from three different models, all of which will work with either left or right-handed sights.
Feel free to make as many as you want and share the link with your buddies. It's not a money-making project for me. I'm offering it up to the archery community to do with what they wish. 3D printing is supposed to be that next "disruptive technology", so disrupt away!
