It's been a few weeks now and I've made quite a few strings. I've experimented with several methods of loop end making. So, in this photo are three methods. The one on the left: two-color loop. The middle one: the method shown in Evans Performance Bowstrings (executed less-than-perfectly). The one on the right: the method described in the Texas State Archery string making instructions.
The two-color method is definitely the most interesting looking and the most fun, but it results in large lumps of served string under the serving. That's not an issue most of the time, but if you decide to put no-glove type devices on your string, you will destroy your serving. I also don't like the multiple tag ends that can show.
The method in Evans Performance Bowstrings results in absolutely no bump of served string under the serving and is therefore very sleek, but it's very difficult to "weave" the transition at the base of the loop and have it look nice. I suppose this improves with experience. Plus, the tag ends are only visible at the very ends of the serving away from the loop, so a clean look.
The Texas State Archery method seems like a compromise between the two. You get a bump from serving over some served string, but it's half as much as the two-color method. You also get no visible tag ends on the loop, just one at the end of the serving if you do it right. It's easier to do than either other method.
So, I think I'll probably be doing the Texas State Archery method for most bowstrings from now on. It's clean, strong, minimal "bump", and quick. Hard to argue with that!
As mentioned in yesterday's post, I recently got a Cartel CX-1 string making jig. Overall I'm very happy with it, but I did have to do something about those feet it came with. If you haven't seen one, here's what the ends look like, with bent aluminum bars as feet:
As you can see, the aluminum bar stock used for the feet has simply been cut off and then bent to form the feet. This works, for sure, but the actual contact with your table is a fairly sharp edge. This will destroy the surface of the table upon which you make strings!
Besides messing up the finish on your table, the jig is all-aluminum except the posts. This means it's very light and will slide all over while you work (further scratching your table). Clamping this thing down would be a nice option, right?
Here's what I did. I got a cheap wooden yardstick from my local big-box hardware store. I also got some longer zip ties. I cut a length of the yardstick for each end of the jig, zip-tied it to the jig with an extra portion of the wood sticking out for clamping, and then attached some self-adhesive felt pads to the bottom. Problem solved! No scratches on the table and I now have a convenient place to clamp. Naturally, a photo is in order:
Having used this jig now to make close to 25 strings, the difference in usability from simply clamping it down is significant. Plus, I am no longer "distressing" the finish on the table. Cost less than $4 to do, so I call this a win!
The back story: a buddy of mine has been volunteering as range master for an archery range at a Cub Scouts Day Camp. It goes for several days, and as many as 200 Cub Scouts will be shooting (not all at once). He has some inexpensive fiberglass bows that have been used for many, many years. This year, they didn't come with strings.
I have been considering getting a string making jig for some time so I can help Boy Scouts with their Archery merit badges, so I figured now is the time. I picked up a Cartel CX-1 string jig and a Bearpaw serving tool. The jig can be seen to the left, including the modifications I made to the feet to keep it from scratching my table and allow me to clamp it in place (a big help).
I had limited knowledge of what I was doing, so I posted on ArcheryTalk asking for recommendations on string material, number of strands, and serving material for generic, low end bows. A representative from Brownell Archery contacted me and helped me out with a bunch of materials! I received a bunch of B-50 bowstring and #4 Nylon serving thread in an assortment of colors.
Now that I had the materials and the tools, I set about learning how to make some strings. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos and read a lot of online tutorials. The online tutorial that helped most at first was this one from Texas State Archery.
I've discovered that there are dozens of techniques and methods for building bowstrings. It seems people find the way that works for them and use that.
After a few shaky attempts, I was getting something resembling a bowstring!
Starting and Stopping Spinning
The biggest trouble I had at first was the terrible instructions for the CX-1 jig. They just don't clearly tell you how and where to start spinning the bowstring onto this jig. Furthermore, the instructions tell you to do things that can't be done. After some looking at YouTube videos, I settled on the following way to start and stop spinning the bowstring:
Wrap the string several times around the inner post of one end of the jig.
Spin the strands of string onto the jig. (Don't count the 12" part from the inner post to the outer post!)
Finish spinning by wrapping the string around the outer post on the same arm that was used to start in step 1. Cut the string so you can get the spool out of the way.
Making End Loops
I used two different methods for making end loops:
Serve a section to a particular length, then finish it and cut the serving thread. Form the loop and serve the rest of the loop (sometimes in a contrasting color).
Use a continuous piece of serving thread as in this YouTube video by Evans Performance Bowstrings.
Method #1 has the advantage that you can use different colors for the loop and the rest of the loop serving. I made all the Cub Scouts strings with a red upper loop, black serving and a black lower loop. Also, if you mess up the loop closing serving, like we did installing no-glove string button devices, you can more easily repair the problem.
The problem with method #1 is that you get a lump at the base of the loop, which can be challenging to serve cleanly, and makes installing those no-glove string buttons nearly impossible without ruining the serving.
After the experience of building over a dozen strings for the Cub Scouts using method #1, I have since switched to method #2 as shown in Evans Performance Bowstrings video. Although you can't mix/match serving colors like I did using method #1, the result is a much smaller and neater looking end loop. I suspect it's probably a bit stronger too.
For my sanity's sake and for future reference, here are the serving lengths and starting points I used for making end loops using each of these methods:
Method #1
Upper loop: serve anywhere you like as long as you have enough room. Serve a 4" length and finish it using a whip end. Position the loop as desired after you rotate the jig arm back. Serve the rest of the loop, starting so that you get a 1.5" loop. I usually don't match up the ends, so that serving over them tapers a little.
Lower loop: rotate the jig arm 90 degrees on the end opposite that you just finished serving. Measure 3.75" from on post (the jig arms are 12" apart on the CX-1). Start serving there. Serve for about 3.75" to 4".
Top Loop: Serve 3.5" before rotating the jig arm and aligning the ends of the serving. This will give you roughly 1.5" top loop.
Bottom Loop: Mark the exact center of the bottom loop location. You can use a marker as in the video or tie a small piece of serving thread at the exact middle on the post. The serving for the lower loop should be about 2.5", and must be centered exactly on that mark. This will give you roughly a 1" bottom loop.
Which Method?
Since I've mentioned two methods for making the end loops, you're probably wondering which I'll be using in the future. I guess it depends. If I want a flashy, multi-color served string, I'll use method #1. If I want a sleek, potentially stronger string, I'll probably use method #2. Either will work pretty well.
