An interesting video about angles - The Wedge

While there is some debate about a few statements made in this video, the majority is very sound.  I'm going to have to watch it over a few times, but it does a good job explaining about trying to minimize the forces on an archer's muscles, which should improve consistency.

Just so I don't forget...recurve arrow rules of thumb

John Magera has been a pretty good source of information for me over the past few years.  He has significant experience working with a lot of archers and knows what works.  He posted this "Arrow Rule of Thumb" guide recently in response to the numerous inquiries he receives asking for help.  I'm putting it here so I don't forget where it is.

2500 spine (1214 Jazz) work from bows that are about 22# @ 22"

2000 spine Medallion XR's or 1413 Jazz/Tribues work from bows that are about 24# at 24"

1500 spine Medallion XR's, 5/15 Super Clubs, and A/C/C's work from bows that are about 26# at 26"

1200 spine CI Ultra Fast, 10/20 Super Clubs and 1150 spine A/C/C's work from bows that are about 28# at 28"

1000 spine Victory VAP's, 15/25 Super Clubs, and CX Nano SST's work from bows that are about 30# at 30"


(do you see a pattern there?)


800 spine 20/30 Super Clubs, Victory VAP's and Nano SST's and Nano Pro's work from bows that are about 32# at 30"

600 spine A/C/E's, X10's, NPX and SST's work from bows that are 40# at 30" (Rick McKinney gave me that little nugget in 2006, and I've never forgotten it).

500 spine A/C/E's, X10's, NPX and SST's work from bows that are about 45# at 31"

450 spine (what I use) A/C/E's, X10's, Nano SST's and Nano Pro Xtremes work from bows that are about 47# at 32"

These are some rules of thumb for recurve archers with normal stabilization. Barebow archers can expect to be on the slightly weak side with these arrows, and will need to lean toward a slightly stiffer solution (shorter shaft length, lighter point weight, stiffer shaft, less draw weight, more nock-end weight, etc.)

Looks like Fivics likes my photo

Fivics' Ad

I was looking through Facebook yesterday and noticed that Elivanes are now being sold in Korea (and probably other places) by Fivics. Here's the page on Fivics.com: http://fivics.com/fivics2013/gallery/gallery.php?bbs_no=229&bbs_code=10004&symode=view

I was looking at the ad and it instantly hit me that the bottom photo (the one with three arrows in a blurry target) is one of mine from this blog!

The photo is from my post about Elivanes, and it's been rotated 180 degrees, cropped somewhat, and the wrinkle on one of the vanes was Photoshopped smooth

Here's the original image from my January 2014 post:

My photo from Jan. 2014

Although initially used without asking me, Fivics responded to my messages and is now using my image with permission.

I've had good success with Elivanes and I hope others have similar success.  Now people have another way to get their hands on the vanes!

Arrow Selection for Young Archers

It's a common topic of discussion about how some archery shops frequently suggest very, very incorrect arrows for beginner recurve archers.  There are at least four models of "youth" arrows being marketed by arrow manufacturers that are ridiculously inappropriate for any youth shooters.  Today I found a really clear discussion on Archery Talk about what arrows are most appropriate for youth shooters, written by a former US Olympic team member and very active JOAD coach, John Magera.  Here's what he said:

After spending the better part of the past 10 years setting up competitive rigs for my daughter and some other very young students, I've made a few observations. Here they are: 

1) For any kid shooting less than 20# and 24#, they should unequivocally be using 1214 Easton aluminum (Jazz or Tribute) arrows. Period. It is simply the most competitive arrow they can use, and will work just fine indoors, and outdoors all the way out to 30 meters (50, if they are well coached). 1214's are a 2500 spine (2.5" deflection) arrow. There is no other arrow that can do what they do for our tiniest archers, save perhaps 1/4" ramin wood dowels at the local Hobby Lobby (don't laugh - they work).

2) The next arrow a kid should be put into after they graduate from the 1214 Jazz is the 2000 spine Medallion XR. Again, period, end of story. If they are to be competitive outdoors, this is their arrow. They could possibly use another size Jazz or Tribute (1413 or the like) but they will be heavier and larger in diameter. When it comes to carbon outdoor arrows for kids, no arrow can compete with the 2000-1800 spine Medallion XR's for overall performance and value. You have to get to the 1500 spine A/C/C to get close.
For a kid to shoot the 2000 spine Medallion XR's, they need to be shooting AT LEAST 22# on the fingers, and the arrow still needs to be at least 24" long to have any chance of spining properly.

3) The weakest CI Super Club is the 5/10, and even it is still 1500 or so spine. Not a competitive option until a kid is shooting about 24-25# with an arrow that is 25-26" long. 

So, where does that leave us? If your student/child is shooting less than 24# on the fingers and is using an arrow less than 26" long, there really are only 2 or 3 arrows that will shoot straight out of their recurve. Anything else is going to be overspined. Most likely WAY overspined.

John has years of experience in this.  I have personally received quite a bit of advice from him and he has been right every single time.  From my limited experience as a coach, what he says about youth arrows is totally on target (pun intended).

So, unless a youth shooter is above 25# on the fingers and over 26" long arrow length, there really are only two totally appropriate arrows to suggest: Easton 1214 (Jazz or Tribute) or Carbon Express Medallion XR 2000.  After that, the Carbon Impact Super Club 5/10.  Very useful information!

3D Printed Apertures- They're Ready for You to Try!

Well, it's been a bit of a process, but I think that the 3D printed recurve sight aperture project is ready for the public.  On the left you can see the latest iteration of these DIY apertures with a metal rule for size comparison.

It's kid of a DIY project, where you order the parts and assemble the aperture yourself to your liking.  The housing is 3D printed and you can choose from three different models, all of which will work with either left or right-handed sights.

The page for this project has been added to this blog at http://archerygeek.blogspot.com/p/3d-printed-aperture.html

Feel free to make as many as you want and share the link with your buddies.  It's not a money-making project for me.  I'm offering it up to the archery community to do with what they wish.  3D printing is supposed to be that next "disruptive technology", so disrupt away!

A couple more renders on the aperture project

After a few prototypes, I've discovered that a few modifications were required.  The bolt head is now shaped for a pan head bolt (much easier to find) and slides in from the back so that the archer's view is smooth and symmetrical.  A few parts were thickened to add strength, and a few places were trimmed to avoid thin wall problems.  Also, the third variant, the non-glass o-ring only aperture, was added.  All will be available in right hand or left hand.

Coming soon - recurve apertures you can build

I've been testing/prototyping a recurve aperture which I plan to make available to anyone who wants to put one together.  I'm not going to be selling these things, but rather I'll make the model available for order from a 3D printing company, and then you'd acquire a bolt, a nut, o-rings, and glass if desired.  So far I'm thinking two sizes would be good: one that accepts a 15mm glass window (about 5/8" O.D.) and one that accepts a 12.5mm glass window (around 1/2" O.D.)  Naturally, you'd only use the glass if you want to use a dot or drill it for a fiber.  Otherwise you would be able to just use o-rings to vary the size of the aperture opening you look through.

Here's a rendering:

Stay tuned ... should be ready soon!